DIY Guide >> DIY Guide Wall Tiling

Setting out for walls

It's most important to set the job out carefully at the beginning.

If you're tiling from floor level, just find the lowest point on the floor. At this point, mark the wall one tile height above the floor or base moulding.

Tack a straight edge batten to the wall with the top edge resting on the mark. Level the batten with a spirit level and secure with nails. Draw a line on the wall along the top edge of the batten. Continue this process around the room on each wall so that the lines meet accurately at each corner.

Set out a row of tiles across the wall including the appropriate tile spacers and adjust them to ensure that equal spaces are left at the ends (see arrows).

Mark the position of each tile along the batten. Now use a plumb-line to mark vertical pencil lines on the wall, corresponding to the marks on your batten. This helps keep tiles straight. Start tiling near an end or at the centre of the wall. Do not start in a corner.

Use a plumb-line to mark the starting line and nail a vertical batten on the line. Now mark position of each tile on the vertical batten to the height you want. Allowing again for joints between the tile.

Tiling walls

After the setting out is completed it is time to start tiling. Make sure you have the right adhesive by checking against selection guide in this booklet. Carefully read the instructions on the label, especially note those concerning Surface Priming. Never start tiling from a corner, as most are out of square and will cause tiles to run out of the line right around the wall. Apply only the recommended amount of adhesive at a time to prevent it starting to set before the tiles are in place.

Use a suitable sized notched trowel to achieve the recommended bed thickness on the label (normally approx. 5mm) and to ensure the adhesive is applied evenly across the surface.

If you are using decorator tiles with uneven backs, spread adhesive onto the wall and also "butter" the backs of the tiles to ensure a good bond.

Start tiling at the intersection of the battens and tile across and up the wall. Place the dry tiles on the wall slightly out of position and slide sideways into position. Press tiles firmly. Use plastic tile spacers of at least 2mm thickness to achieve a neat appearance. Remove any excess adhesive from the face of the tiles with a damp cloth before the adhesive dries.

Check regularly with a spirit level to keep lines straight. Continue tiling to required height.

Leave tiles for 12 hours then remove battens and fill in floor level row. Trim tiles to fit and cut to fit into corners. Butter adhesive on to back of cut tile and press into position (see Cutting Tiles).

Cutting tiles

Measure width of tile to be cut by placing the tile face down against the wall, and pushing against adjoining surface. Mark the edge of the tile when it meets with the edge of the incomplete tiling. Allow for jointing and wall clearance. Pencil mark the tile along the line where it is to be cut. Score the glazed surface by drawing a tile scriber or cutter along a ruler.

Place a nail or match under and along the scored line, press the edges of the tile down firmly and it will snap along the line. You can smooth the cut edge with a carborundum stone or file.

Fixing mosaic tiles to walls.

Near the centre of your wall, drop a plumb-line and mark a vertical starting line with a pencil. Starting from this line, set out mosaic sheets on either side of the line. If necessary, re-position the centre line to leave equal spaces in the corners.

At the lowest point of the wall, hold a sheet of tiles and pencil mark the wall at the top of the tiles. Place a spirit level on this mark and pencil a horizontal line right along the wall.

Apply the adhesive above the base line on one side of the centre vertical line. Spread adhesive across the wall to reduce slippage. Use a 3mm square notched spreader.

Hold sheet out from required position, then press firmly onto wail from the top. Place a flat board firmly against the tiles to make sure all mosaics are in contact with the adhesive. Use tacks to hold heavy sheets of mosaics and avoid slipping or stretching of mesh.

Tile out from either side of the vertical line. Allow the same tile space between sheets. Continue tiling with full width sheets as far as you can. Come back to centre line and tile other side of wall. Cheek with spirit level. Now go back to centre line and tile second row and continue up the wall. Measure and cut sheets to fit into corners, by laying on the sheet face down on the area still to be tiled. Allow for joints and wall clearances, and mark both sides of the tile. Score tiles with tile cutter and cut off with tile nippers. If there is insufficient space to apply adhesive to wall, apply to back of sheet which has been cut to required size. Press firmly onto wall. Clean off excess adhesive before it dries.

Accessories

While tiling mark the position of soap holders etc. on wail and leave out corresponding tile(s). After tiling is complete apply the adhesive to the back of the soap holder or accessory and press firmly into position and hold it by applying tape over each corner. Leave tape in position for 24 hours until adhesive sets.

Grouting

Allow adhesive to cure for 24 hours. Mix the selected white or coloured grout according to the directions on the bag. Spread the grout with a rubber grouter and work well into all joints and around all edges. Remove excess grout immediately with a clean damp cloth, or sponge, wash out frequently. When the grout has dried, polish the tiles with a dry soft cloth.

Handy hints

Where two walls meet at an expansion joint, or where a wall meets a horizontal surface, do not grout, fill the gap with Morgan's Acriflex.